My rear wheel presses into perfectly moist dirt, the knobs bite with confidence and grip. The air is crisp, the ground alive beneath the tires. Somewhere between snowfields and drifting clouds at 2,500 meters above sea level, I realize that riding this high at the end of October could have been a risk, but it’s also a privilege. Most of the trails are in their best shape, with only the occasional snow patch reminding me that the mountains always keep a few challenges in reserve. It’s exactly what makes this adventure unforgettable: raw landscapes, quiet solitude, and the kind of memories that only come from embracing the unexpected.

The four of us started this trip two days ago. We are like a team on a mission. Yet there are these quiet moments of solitude, doubt, focus. I push the final vertical meters, reach the pass, and suddenly our team is together again.

The idea was hatched with my buddy Massimo, better known as ‘Bubba’, to ride the Tour du Mont Blanc in four days. A clockwise circumnavigation around the White Giant, in search of the most beautiful trails for eMTB. At the end of the season, when the hikers are gone, the huts are closed, and we finally have time for ourselves. Bubba and I are mountain-bike guides during the summer and take guests on these routes. But now, the mountain is ours alone to explore.

Our friendship goes back 15 years. We met on a bike trip in Aosta, Italy. Since then, many projects have followed, mostly in the Aosta Valley – Bubba’s home and one of my absolute favorite places to ride bikes. This time, though, our radius is a little bigger and we’ll be crossing borders.

Our adventure starts in Switzerland, in the wonderful Val Ferret. With us are Andrea, our photographer from Aosta, and Ace, filmmaker, mountain guide, and Courmayeur local. As we leave La Fouly, the sun is shining and it’s a frosty 8°C. A winter storm almost ruined our plans a couple of days before. Now we have a narrow weather window with sunshine, before the bad weather returns – meaning everyday counts.

The first climb begins easily on a forest road. As we gain altitude, the terrain becomes more demanding and we get a first sense of how much snow we’ll have to contend with. The final meters up to the Grand Col Ferret – technical, slippery, challenging – require full concentration.

At the top, we high-five and look for shelter from the wind. Around us, all is white. Fresh snow has plunged us into a winter wonderland, even though it’s only October. The trails are mostly clear – frozen in the morning, soft by midday, constantly changing.

To our right, the Grandes Jorasses towers above us. Ahead, a panorama trail that stretches like a balcony along the opposite flank of the Mont Blanc massif, dropping deep into Val Ferret towards the resort of Courmayeur. This is Ace’s playground. He shows us lines that he skis in winter. To me, it looks more like terrain for mountain goats; it’s hard to imagine descending these gulleys on skis.

The final trail delivers pure flow before we roll into the shadow of the mountain and onto the road towards our hotel, a hot shower, and a tasty raclette. All in all, a perfect day.

The next morning, we awake to a view of the Mont Blanc glacier and continue our journey up into the stunning Val Veny, passing by dramatic rock formations and end moraines that were covered by glacial ice not too long ago. Mont Blanc is a constant presence, with its massive ice crevasses sparkling in the sun. We cruise comfortably on a forest road, then turn off to the left at Rifugio Elisabetta. What was an easy climb turns into a proper trail, and it gets more technical towards the top. The landscape opens up; steep ramps alternate with rocky sections. Turbo mode helps and, once again, I’m glad to be on my SCOTT Patron E-Bike.

Finally reaching the Col de la Seigne (2,512 m), we cross the border into France. What follows is a trail highway at its finest: high speed, endless space, not a soul in sight. Just us and our bikes – a mountain biker’s dream. And if Andrea and Ace hadn’t suddenly intervened to stop and shoot some photos, Bubba and I probably wouldn’t have stopped until we had reached the valley floor, grinning from ear to ear.

Next stop: Cormet de Roselend. With a view of the idyllic lake, we recharge, physically and electrically. Tomorrow’s stage will be demanding, with Col du Bonhomme and Col de Voza – two serious alpine passes – on the menu. As a reward, we will then shoot down the trails of the legendary enduro mecca Les Houches, straight into the Chamonix Valley.

A few meters along the bike path and we’re into the cradle of modern alpinism. Chamonix is buzzing, full of outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world. We roll through the pedestrian zone and soak up the atmosphere. After a while, though, our gaze drifts upward. There it is again: Mont Blanc, this time seen from the impressive north face, with the Aiguille du Midi glowing in the last evening light.

We start the final stage early. From Chamonix, we roll towards Argentière. Flowy trails along the river sweeten our approach to Le Tour. Once we arrive, we have to improvise because in summertime, the gondola is open to bikers, but now it is off-season. It’s time to save battery and use pedal power to climb steadily on gravel, past the bike park, up to the Col de Balme.

At the top, we’re greeted once more by the wind and the cold. One downside to riding at this time of year is that all the mountain huts are closed. We keep the break short – a few bites of our sandwiches, an extra layer of clothing, then Bubba presents his ‘special descent’.

On the map, it looks very promising. The entrance is a bit washed out by the rain, but rideable. After that, kilometer after kilometer of the finest flow unfolds. And for the grand finale, shortly before Trient, a real treat: steep switchbacks in the forest with massive roots, the blackest of black trails on Trailforks. But we’re lucky. The ground is dry, and we have maximum traction. After adjusting to the more technical terrain, even this section becomes pure fun. Cameras are stowed away – no more photos or filming, just unadulterated riding. We try to pass each other on the inside line, laughter ringing through the group. The descent is long and our arms are pumped as we roll out of the forest approximately 1,000 vertical meters later, back in Switzerland.

At the picnic area, we find a spot in the sun to enjoy our sandwiches and reflect on the past four days:
7,700 vertical meters
180 kilometers
Three countries
One Mont Blanc massif
Countless trail moments…
But most importantly, true camaraderie

Get ready for Big Mountain rides: Here’s a few tips from the Pros:

Text: Holger Meyer
Guide: Massimo Ferro
Photos by Andrea Passerini
Video: Aiace Bazzana